In Pursuit of Gross National Happiness

This is an English translation of an article published in Nikkan San on November 7, 2019, as a part of my column, “The Way of the Pianist.

I visited the Kingdom of Bhutan, a Tibetan Buddhist country in South Asia. I’ve been curious about the country whose government’s guiding philosophy policy is GNH, Gross National Happiness: not GNP (Gross National Product) or GDP (Gross Domestic Product) that the other countries seem to be obsessing over. As a musician wanting to make my music making more socially relevant by knowing myself and the world better, I’ve jumped at the invitation through my US-Japan Leadership Program network.

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Not only temples, but residential buildings are also colorful. Our hotel.

GNH considers collective happiness of individuals as the basis of harmonious and most effective society, and lists four pillars as its guiding principles. 1) sustainable and equitable socio-economic development; 2) environmental conservation; 3) preservation and promotion of culture; and 4) good governance. I appreciate their valuing culture as one of the basis for a functional society, but I also saw that the traditional culture is under the threat of domination by the Western culture. For example, Bhutan is staring to incorporate music and arts in its elementary school education, but the music curriculum focuses on Western music. With its simple and effective notation and established pedagogy, Western music is easier to disseminate than the orally transmitted traditional music. In addition, the role that media plays in Westernization overall is overwhelming. Our guide for this trip was also a singer of traditional music with a CD released, but he did confide his concerns in me about the younger generations’ preference towards Western music over their own culture’s.

We also visited the National Hospital. Compared to the hospitals we are used to in Japan and the U.S., their facility was more basic. However, every member of the community was actively involved, doing their best. I was especially impressed with the families whose homes were close to the hospital offering lunches to families who are from far away. Three monks were at the hospital full time to offer their counseling and spiritual guidance, not only to the patients but to the families and the hospital staff. There was a large room in the hospital, dedicated for religious rituals and ceremonies.

A palliative doctor in our group said how “we are ‘human beings, not human doings. It’s enough just to be, and to be together,” quoting Hayao Kawai. It rang true, and had a resonance in my heart that I still ruminate over.

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Centuries old castle in distance at dawn.